Universal Genève is entering a new chapter with the return of one of the Maison’s most celebrated creations: the Polerouter. Originally born from a historic polar aviation journey in 1954 and designed by a young Gérald Genta, the timepiece went on to become a defining expression of Universal Genève’s design and technical ingenuity. Today, the iconic model returns in a contemporary form, combining its unmistakable aesthetic codes with a newly developed Microtor movement. We speak with Gregory Bruttin, Managing Director of Universal Genève, about the legacy of the Polerouter, the importance of Gérald Genta’s vision, and the Maison’s approach to bringing a historic icon into the modern era.
The Polerouter has an extraordinary place in Universal Genève’s history. What makes this particular model so important to the Maison?
The Polerouter represents so much of what Universal Genève has always stood for. It brings together design, technical innovation, functionality, and elegance in a way that remains remarkably relevant today.
Its origins are also unique. The watch was created in connection with the pioneering Scandinavian Airlines flight that crossed the North Pole in 1954. Universal Genève was asked to develop a timepiece capable of accompanying pilots through challenging conditions, and the result was the Polerouter.
It quickly became much more than a tool watch. Its balanced proportions, distinctive outer dial ring, twisted lugs, and crosshair dial gave it a very recognizable identity. Over time, it became one of the Maison’s most emblematic creations.
The original Polerouter was designed by a young Gérald Genta. What does his involvement mean to the Maison today?
Gérald Genta’s connection to the Polerouter is fundamental. He was only 23 when he created the design, and it became one of the earliest defining moments of an extraordinary career.
What is particularly meaningful is that the Polerouter was not simply one design among many for him. Whenever Gérald spoke about his career, he would begin with the Polerouter and Universal Genève. It was, as his widow Evelyne Genta recalled, “the start of it all.”
That makes the watch an important part not only of Universal Genève’s history, but also of the history of one of the greatest watch designers of the 20th century.
What was the challenge in bringing such an iconic design back without losing its original character?
The challenge was to respect what made the Polerouter special while allowing it to live naturally in the present day.
We did not want to simply reproduce a vintage watch. The objective was to create a contemporary evolution that remains immediately recognizable as a Polerouter.
The signature elements are still there: the outer dial ring, the twisted lugs, and, of course, the crosshair. But each has been carefully reinterpreted and refined. Some of the capsule editions also introduce more playful artistic elements, allowing us to explore the Maison’s creative identity while remaining connected to the original design.
The Polerouter has always been closely associated with innovation. How does the new model continue that tradition?
Innovation has always been part of the Polerouter’s DNA.
The original watch evolved technically throughout its history. In 1958, Universal Genève introduced the Microtor Calibre 215, which was remarkably thin for its time and represented a major achievement in automatic watchmaking.
For the new generation, we wanted to continue that spirit of innovation. We developed the new UG-110 Microtor movement specifically for the modern Polerouter.
At just 3.8 millimetres in height, it is discreet and elegant while offering the performance expected from a contemporary mechanical movement. It operates at 4 Hz and provides a 72-hour power reserve, making it what we like to call “weekend-proof.”
The crosshair is one of the most recognizable elements of the Polerouter. Why was it so important to preserve it?
The crosshair is an essential part of the Polerouter’s visual identity. It creates balance on the dial and naturally draws the eye toward the centre.
For us, it was important that it remained a starting point for the new designs. At the same time, we wanted to give ourselves the freedom to reinterpret it through different executions and artistic details.
It is a good example of how we approach the entire project: respecting the past without being constrained by it.
Universal Genève has long been associated with the expression “Le Couturier de la Montre.” How does that philosophy influence the new Polerouter?
“Le Couturier de la Montre” speaks to the relationship between watchmaking and design. It reflects the idea that a watch should not only perform beautifully but should also have a distinctive character and elegance.
The Polerouter embodies that philosophy particularly well. Its proportions, curved lines, twisted lugs, and dial architecture create a sense of harmony that goes beyond technical function.
With the new collection, we wanted to preserve that sense of elegance while introducing contemporary interpretations that feel relevant to today’s wearer.
The original Polerouter eventually became popular far beyond the world of aviation, including among cultural icons such as Bruce Lee and Alain Delon. Why do you think it has continued to resonate with such different generations?
I think the answer lies in the strength of the design.
The Polerouter was created for a very specific purpose, but its aesthetic was never limited to aviation. It has a timeless quality that allows it to move naturally between different worlds.
It is sophisticated without being overly formal, technical without appearing purely utilitarian, and distinctive without being excessive. That versatility is one of the reasons it has remained so appealing to collectors and watch enthusiasts.
What do you hope today’s generation will see when they discover the new Polerouter?
I hope they see both a historical icon and something completely relevant to their own time.
For collectors who already know Universal Genève, the new Polerouter offers a connection to an important chapter in the Maison’s history. For those discovering the brand for the first time, it can be an introduction to our design language, our technical expertise, and our philosophy.
Most importantly, I hope people feel the same sense of curiosity and emotion that has always surrounded the Polerouter. A great watch should tell a story—and this one has an extraordinary story to tell.
As Universal Genève begins this new chapter, what does the return of the Polerouter represent for the future of the Maison?
The Polerouter is a symbol of where we have come from and where we want to go.
It reminds us that innovation and timeless design are not opposites. The original Polerouter was innovative because it responded to the needs of its time while establishing a strong visual identity. We want to carry that same spirit forward.
Our ambition is not simply to recreate Universal Genève’s past. It is to understand what made the Maison exceptional and bring those values into the future.
The return of the Polerouter is therefore more than the relaunch of an iconic watch. It is a statement of intent for the next chapter of Universal Genève.
