Today, modern design is finally rediscovering the charm of Polki diamonds, which blends tradition with contemporary flair. When we dive into the enchanting world of Polki diamonds, that is over two thousand years old.
Diamonds were first discovered in India in the 4th century B.C. they were only sourced from India until 1730. Even today, 92% of the world diamonds are still cut and polished in India in the city of Surat, Gujarat.
What is Polki? In the Western world, the term Polki refers to raw, uncut, and unpolished diamonds. It’s the purest and most organic form of diamond, uncut and unpolished with domes that have a flat base. One of the processes of creating a Polki involves slicing a thin section of an uncut diamond to create a base and then to appropriately set it in gold or silver. Some may confuse Polkis with Almas. In Persian and Urdu, the word Almas is a name given to cut and polished diamonds with facets.
THERE ARE THREE types of POLKIS
The Syndicate is one of the best qualities and are 100% natural organic in the raw form with a flat base and with a faceted dome on the top. These diamonds are thick in size. However, it’s very important not to confuse Syndicates with synthetic and artificial Polkis.
Zimbabwe – The Zimbabwe Polki comes from Zimbabwe in Africa, and is of good quality, and thicker; it comes in light and dark range of colours. These are expensive and free from filled chemicals.
Kilwas – These originated in the Kilwa region in Tanzania. The colour is more rustic, with some lower quality diamonds being very clouded.
Polkis have a unique style. Unlike gemstones like rubies, emeralds and other stones that go polished diamonds, which go through a process of cutting, polishing, and other treatments, Polkis are closest to being organic. Polki are usually cut to follow the original size of the stone. Some of the common cuts are:
Rose cut: a flat base dome shape with facets on top resembling a rose.
Table cut: a square shape with a flat base.
Kite cut: a diamond shaped cut.
Round cut: a round top with a flat base
Oval cut: a flat top and faceted base
Pearl cut: a tear drop.
English Polkis are uncut with a slightly domed upward shape, commonly found in antique jewellery.
A Persian scholar named Al Biruni, who visited India in 1020 A.D., noted what the cutter used as a tool, was called emery, to polish the surface of the raw stones and jewellery. Till this day, emery is used in the initial stages of polishing in jewellery.
Polki diamonds don’t have a specific grading system like other gemstones and is valued on 2C’s namely colour and charity. The colour of the Polki is the most important aspect that effects the price. These are from brown to yellowish, but the most valuable are white and off-white colours. The clarity is to determine the inclusion ratio. An inclusion free Polki is rare and expensive. Polkis are valued based more on clarity rather than the carat weight.
However, in today’s world, with technology and new inventions in methods to treatment of gemstones, Polkis are too being treated.
Polki diamonds are natural, unpolished, and uncut diamonds, not uniform in shape and size. As often two Polki’s are not of the same size, setting them can be tricky. The open setting is relatively modern as it reduces workmanship, as the word open refers to the setting and does not use any metal work at the rear of the stone. Close or Kundan setting is one of the oldest forms. The setting is in gold /silver using a foil base and filled with lac. These have intricate work surrounded with Meena Kari work that uses different colours and a special craftsmanship.
How to clean and store Polki diamonds: It’s important to keep all precious gemstones, particularly Polkis, away from direct exposure to perfumes and creams. It’s advisable not to wash Polkis in water as moisture can sometimes cloud them. If cleaning Polkis
at home, do so with the help of an old-style eraser (not the plastic rubber. Lint free clothes can also be used to clean. It’s important to store jewellery in plastic boxes, rather than in those fancy velvet boxes, as over a period, it may start to get dull and turn black (especially Polkis and gold).
The hub of Polki diamonds in India, is in the city of Bikaner in Rajasthan, which has a long history of diamond cutting and craftsmanship for jewellery.
Polki diamonds hold great significance in Indian culture as they are believed to bring prosperity, good health, and happiness. Polki diamonds are passed down from one generation to another, thereby becoming heirlooms in many families. Ancient jewellery has always held significant cultural symbolisms. For example, In China, jade jewellery symbolises wealth and immortality, while in Japan, gold silver jewellery with intricate design represented nature inspiration. Egyptian jewellery was often crafted with gold, silver and semi-precious stones, symbolising growth and wealth, reflecting a blend of religious, cultural, and cosmic beliefs. Greek and Roman jewellery was highly ornate, featuring intricate craftsmanship with precious stones and semi-precious stones, inspired by mythology, astrology, and religion.
Historically in the Mughul era, Polkis were not just used in jewellery but were used in daggers, plates, chessboards, etc. During that period, India played a very significant role in popularising polki. One of the most famous examples of the Mughul’s love for Polki was the “Peacock Throne”, that was commissioned by Shah Jahan in the 17th century. It had several and various precious gemstones like sapphires and diamonds, and pearls, along with polki diamonds. The Mughals developed and influenced the design and craftsmanship of jewellery in India, and many techniques and style developed during that era, are still popular and in use in the present day. During the Nizam era in Hyderabad, the Nizam was known for his opulent lifestyle and exquisite taste in jewellery. His collection had some of the most magnificent jewellery with many pieces using Polki diamonds of the highest qualities. The Al Thani collection in Qatar, which includes antique jewellery from around the world, has, in the present day, one of the most magnificent collections of Polkis of outstanding quality.
In the world of jewellery, Polki diamonds shine as a testament to the artistry of the past and the allure of the present and treasure of the future, reminding us that true beauty is timeless!
