Women’s Fall Winter Collection 2020
At a time when there is a growing urge to cut down on the superfluous, a values-based mindset emerges, which leads us towards longer-term and more versatile ideas, projects and items. The new way of thinking is based on the etymology of the word “elegance”, which comes from the Latin term eligere, meaning to choose, select and enhance the most appropriate element. The desire to avoid waste and to live in harmony with the Creation is expressed through the appeal of a soft and contemporary minimalism, inspiring a renewed freedom to choose what is best in terms of quality, versatility and order.
The Women’s Fall Winter Collection 2020 has a natural tendency for the shapes and colors of traditional culture, for well-dressed elegance that conveys balance and stability. Clean-cut and essential silhouettes, oversize and loose-fit volumes, menswear classics reinterpreted with new feminine and sensual takes, handcrafted techniques enlivened by inspirations from the organic world. The collection’s clean and orderly character blends together with a sense of comfortable, welcoming and natural luxury.
Warm nuances of timeless whites and light and medium tones of beige are harmoniously combined with a fine array of delicate colors – lilac, sky blue, aqua and pink – as well as with hints of leather, chocolate and all the natural hues of horse tack and saddles.
Touches of black alternate with organic-inspired shades of light grey and delicate metallic flashes of bronze, gold and silver. Patterns carefully selected from British tradition intervene, with inserts, embroidery and reinterpretations, in a harmonious solid color scheme.
The natural appearance of the surfaces and colors makes the collection unique and appealing. The simple elegance of the lines is balanced by enveloping cashmeres and crochet patterns, brushed or bouclé textures, wispy effect mohair and alpaca wool, three-dimensional and shaded dégradé effects.
Traditional fabrics – granité, tricotine, cavalry twill, gabardine and plain weave wool – convey the style of structured textiles but take on a lightweight and fluid appearance thanks to the use of advanced technology and thin yarns. Precious tactile surfaces exquisitely alternate with couture effects. Tiny check, houndstooth, damier, pinstripe and regimental patterns touch upon British heritage style, revisited with jacquard embroidery, sequins, printed silk or loop stitching, combining good taste with a desire for uniqueness.
Leather plays a key role, first of all in the color palette – an essential element for styling – but also in the refined interpretation of unusual items, such as shirts, dresses, outerwear, jackets, cloaks, coats and down jackets.
Created in accordance with the values of authenticity and durability, the collection is designed keeping in mind the idea of versatility, longevity across seasons, and suitability for any occasion thanks to a style that can be effortlessly renewed with special garments and accessories.
Essential silhouettes highlight the enveloping volumes of maxi coats, menswear-inspired shirts are worn open to enhance sensuality, jackets with big shoulders alternate with English rib sweaters. New soft nappa leather shirts are combined with the sartorial elegance of high-rise trousers. Shirts, pea coats, skirts and trousers with sparkling bronze, gold or silver effects convey a feminine allure, especially when paired with men’s heritagefashion fabrics.
The sober feel of suits brightens up thanks to hints of color and relaxed fitting trousers, or by renewing itself with skirts and tailored Bermuda shorts. Timeless elegance and femininity blend together to express a new soft power dressing code, in perfect balance between professional and private life.
Jackets and Shirts
Maxi coats and extra-long down jackets set the new trend for the season in terms of proportions. Blazers dominate the scene and come in a variety of styles: belted with broad shoulders, equestrian-style cuts featuring pleats, and above all oversize volumes that boldly revolutionize style, to wear over flimsy dresses and with chevalier boots.
The shirt exceeds its role and imposes itself as a must-have item to complement any outfit. When in versions made from padded alpaca or leather, it is worn as a jacket over turtleneck dresses or sweaters, in versions made from shearling, double wool or cashmere it replaces the coat, or when made from cutting-edge fabrics it provides an alternative to outerwear, and even features in down filled versions. The overshirt has quickly become a popular term and item in the world of fashion, a year-round wardrobe essential that lends a young and contemporary appeal to any look.
The knitwear line fully expresses the mood of the season, acting as a sort of sound box that amplifies all the themes: skillful handcrafted techniques always strike the perfect balance between good taste and inspirations borrowed from the natural world, moving from reinterpretations of regimental and formal pinstripe motifs to new organic patterns.
Ramage, bark, and feuillage effects are created with three-dimensional irregular crochet, inlaid or embroidered stitches. All the traditional patterns – cable knits, English rib, flat rib stitches and Northern European motifs – take on a more lightweight appearance thanks to openwork and mesh effect stitches: the sporty style thus gives way to more a more delicate and feminine flair.
Trousers and Skirts
Menswear inspirations are toned down by glamorous details, volumes and feminine accessories: tall boots steal the show, matched with new long tailored Bermudas, worn over trousers, or with skirt-pants, evoking equestrian style.
Sartorial loose fit trousers step outside the boundaries of formal attire, and feature tactile fabrics nodding to vintage fashion. Long or inverted pleats emphasize the dynamic interplay of volumes. Slightly curved silhouettes are paired with long turn-ups, while the waist is enhanced by bustier-effect or coordinated fabric belts, merging the essence of activewear with the world of formal wear.
Materials that break free from seasonality and contemporary combinations lend a fresh and versatile flair to skirts. Light and fluid – tulle, nappa leather, lamé, pleated or panel – skirts meet the increasing demand for femininity. Delicate floral motifs, fine degrade effects on tulle and plain weave wool, and embossed textures are all skillfully handcrafted elements that enhance the appeal and value of the garments.
Within a context of order and refined minimalism, accessories play a key role in lending uniqueness to any outfit, always relying on essential, precious and timeless stylistic elements. Natural leathers featuring delicate polished effects alternate with prints that emulate organic surfaces.
The vintage inspirations running through the bag collection give life to either destructured and crinkled shapes or to the geometric and minimalist lines of the handcrafted constructions. Day bags in maxi versions flaunt precious leathers, while mini evening bags are so reduced in size that they resemble details or pendants that complement your look.
Equestrian-inspired boots define the style of any outfit, as the distinctive spurs make a comeback, taking on a new sophisticated, handcrafted and feminine identity. Iconic Chelsea boots are reinterpreted with a contemporary twist, with detailing that adds a feminine and sparkling note. High-heels mix modern femininity with refined and shiny handcrafted decorations.